Embossing with Stamps Tutorial

Few techniques elicit such an amazed response as embossing with stamps. This is the first stamping technique I tried when I started stamping. I made all our wedding invitations, over a decade ago, and embossing still excites and inspires me.

Embossing uses a few tools that are readily available in the marketplace. Here are some of them.

First, you need a sticky stamp pad or adhesive. Embossing powder, the main ingredient used when embossing with stamps, needs something sticky to hold onto until it has melted. You can use pigment inks, such as Stampin' Up! (r) craft ink, or Versamark, by Tsukineko. For my project today I chose to use the Versamark stamp pad.

The next ingredient, of course, is embossing powder. This is a powdery resin material that melts into the paper when heat is applied to it. You can get many different colours and finishes. I will be using a metallic embossing powder, gold.

A heat tool is the next item you'll need to find. These are available in craft stores for around $30-$40. Don't let the price put you off- they are worth their weight in gold. I have used my first heat tool when embossing with stamps for about a decade now, and it's still working well for me. Before I go further, I'd like to address the question of using a hair dryer to emboss with. I can tell you a definitive "no". A hair dryer won't get hot enough to melt the powder; you'll end up with embossing powder blown about your craft space and dry ink below. I've heard of people holding their project over a hot stove or toaster, but I personally wouldn't recommend that. The hassle of injury isn't worth the risk for the small amount of money you'll save. Now, some embossing tips and tricks to share with you.

First, start by inking up your stamp very well, and stamp it down firmly and completely onto your paper. Make sure you don't rock your stamp when inking or stamping! Remember, wherever ink touches your paper, embossing powder will stick. Read my tutorial on how to stamp here...

Next, make sure your image is completely stamped. Any bald spots on the paper will be ineffective at holding onto embossing powder. Now, a hint for you...if you do end up with a bald spot on your stamped image, use a clear embossing pen to fill in the gaps. Tsukineko also makes one of these, called a Versamarker. Simply write with the brush or pen tip across your bald spot, making sure you fill in all the spaces. Always handle your stamped paper by the edges to prevent oils from your fingers transferring to the paper. Next, place your stamped piece onto scrap paper, and lightly sprinkle embossing powder over the image. The powder will always stick to where you have the ink, but sometimes too much powder stays on because of static or fingerprint oils. I like to turn my paper upside down and give it a firm flick on the underside. This usually dispels most excess powder.

Certain papers or powders seem to lend themselves to being too "adherant". When I've embossed with stamps on certain metallic papers, for example, it's next to impossible to remove enough static to have the embossing powder stick only where I want it to. In this situation, another handy tool out there is a little "pillow" of powder, similar to what gymnasts use on their hands, that you can rub onto your paper before embossing, and remove afterwards with a swiffer dry dusting cloth. The one by Stampin' Up! (r) is called an Embossing Buddy.

After you've stamped, added the powder, and flicked off the excess, the magic happens. Start by turning on your heat gun and wait a few seconds for it to warm up. Then, holding your embossed image by the corner, melt the powder by slowly moving the hot air across the image. If your fingers get too hot, turn off the heat and move your fingers to another corner. I wouldn't put your image down on the counter or floor as the heat will probably damage those surfaces in some way.

Most regular powders make it easy to tell when they are melted, as they change from a powdery finish to a silky, liquid look. Some embossing powders have non-melting materials in them that give your image an aged look, but I haven't liked the effect when I've used them, and so prefer to use regular melting powders.

I should make the point here that it is very easy to melt too long and damage your artwork. Paper will start to smolder or burn if the heat is applied too closely, or set too long, in the same place. A good rule of thumb is to hold your heat gun about 8-12 inches away from your paper, and move it around slowly, not pausing for more than a few seconds in any one spot.

You also want to be sure not to touch it immediately after heat setting, as the embossing powder may still be slightly liquid and your fingerprint will be impressed upon it.

So now you have it, a complete "how to" guide on embossing with stamps. There are many variations on embossing. You can try embossing on wood, on paper that just came out of your printer, or on vellum. You can alter your embossed images by adding pigments such as chalks or pearl-ex powders. You can mix clear embossing powder with flavored drink crystals to add a "scratch and sniff" dimension to your cards, or do a myriad of other techniques that take the basic steps involved in embossing with stamps and modifying or adding to them in some way. I hope this has helped to answer some of your questions about embossing with stamps. Stay tuned for more techniques over the summer!

My example uses 2 types of stamps, both of which are supposed to have bald spaces within the images. Check out the gallery here.

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